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Old 11-11-2007, 03:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default hooked up the brake booster wrong or something else?

Hi everyone,

yet another thread for my old torana project, i got the brake booster hooked up (rather then the bolt i had in the manifold ) and i think ive either hooked it up wrong..or something.

when i turn the car on the pedal just sinks to the floor, i have no idea why, im not even sure if its a stock brake system to the old service manual isnt much help...

i think it is a double-diafragm booster as it is quite thick but not very tall
my other thread has about the best pic i got of it for now...http://www.aussiev8.com.au/showthrea...164#post139164

can anyone shead some light on this? cheers,
-Daniel
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Old 11-11-2007, 03:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the booster is working fine, just no brakes to push! Are the brakes working, have they been bled (could be full of water and air)? Maybe the master cylinder needs attention? Usually if the booster is stuffed you will hear hissing noises. It looks like a standard V8 Torana dual diaphragm jobbie to me.
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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LX at it again, hah hah, cheers mate

ill open up all the nipples and do a gravity bleed overnight, give it all a good flush-out, failing that inspect the master cylnder

just out of curiosity, where girlock calipers standard on the LC's, or only on the big torries like LX, ect?

cheers mate
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sad that I have nothing better to do sometimes!

According to my book, LC-LX had the cast iron PBR caliper, UC went to the Girlock. Not 100% sure on that though because I know for a fact that UC had the alloy PBR one also. They all fit in the same hole, HQ-HZ had a lot of different calipers also, Holden seemed to try a lot of options during those years.
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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they cirtainly did, cheers for the info.....again

diddnt manage to bleed the brakes today, i was busy wiring up an inverter so we can test out the 240v side of the wiring at the farm house, looks scary though, the previous owner had a fettish for twisting and taping wires together....sometimes without the tape
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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As was mentioned mate you either have air in the lines or the master has shat itself, i would go with the master being off if the car has sat for a while.
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Old 02-12-2007, 11:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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your probably right kingpin, ive been realy slack working on the o'l car lately, i had a little accident with the old man's FJ40, i drove it from craigieburn>heathcote (~150km) and she overheated, i opened the bonnet and at that exact moment, the plastic overflow bottle exploded so i got boiling hot coolant\rust-sludge all over my left arm and left side of my face, i only just got out of bandages but the sun is murder on virgin skin so i still gotta wait for a little while before i can work again.

ill grab one of my mates and give bleeding a go to see if that solves it, if not im going to see if i can extend the rod and go for un-powered brakes, the booster wont be that critical anyway as too much brake power just locks up the wheels on dirt anyway
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just on a side note, I believe gravity type bleeding is NOT the best, cause thru the years Ive done my own tests and found that it is best with some one pushing the pedal down with vigour,.. why, because air bubbles dont want to go down hills, especially when nothing is pushing them.

ocassionally, an air bubble can get stuck, so with force on that pedal , it will get a bubble down hill and up and out of the bleed hole.

but your problem is much worst then an air bubble, agreed.

also if your master cylinder is old or oldish, then try not to push it all the way to the floor, because there will be corrosion build up at the end of normal travel, so it will tear (tare) the preasure cup and ruin a relatively ok master cylinder, so I normally put a block of wood under the pedal so it goes down as far as it would under normal use or a bit less. just my 2 c worth
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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and a very valid $0.02 it is stroker, i think ill do just that, exceeding the pedal's normal travel whilst bleeding may cause all sorts of problems, if it turns out that the booster is the blame however, ill just go for un-boosted brakes, ive just done this on my XF falcon free-bee.

next chance i get, ill give them a bleed the tried and true way.

on a side note my ugly mug is scar-less from my accident and ive still got 20\20 vision....im pretty happy ^^
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