v8tfcorty

([quote=getuted]if you want punchy bass, get a ported sub. if you wont drone long lasting heart beat jumping bass. get an inclosed sub box, if the box you buy is to small, mount the sub on the outside of the box facing in then port it.)

a sub doesnt care whether its mounted cone in or out either way it still pushes the same amount of air so if enclosure is too small its just plain to small another point to note is that a sealed sub box will generally be the smallest you can build a ported box is larger.( also need to add you just cant port a box u need to know the correct dimensions for the port otherwise fried sub city)

(also in my experience with 15s dont buy a hell expansensive amp as it only turns to distortion. also in regards to a breaker. waste of money.)

buy an amp that atleast meets or exceeds the subs specified rating if you buy a smaller amp the sub will clip firstly leading to distortion then onto fried voice coil gernerally it has been known the cheapers ones distort the quickest just remember distortion = clipping = fried sub

(another note, when running your power lines to your amp, which im guessin wull be in your boot, i hate to tell you but you have to run teh power down one side of the car and the speaker wires down the other, most people think it woint make a differnece, but with 15s it does due to the sound wavelenghts.)


ok never heard of the whole 15s and wave length one but as a rule of thumb run your amp's power wires down one side off the car and the low level inputs ( rca's ) down the other side of the car regadless of speaker's if you run them together you will possibly introduce electrical noise into the sound system.

i also run a single 15 in a sealed 3cuft enclosure and it makes nice tight bass have seen 137db at an amatuer sound off.
they can and do make some nice bass if set up properly
cheers
jerome